Weaves of pride

Explore Madurai’s Sungudi saris, Dindigul’s organic cotton and Koranaadu handloom from Mayiladuthurai at this one-week expo

They say it is only when you learn a foreign language that you get a better understanding of your native tongue.

My experience at the 3rd National Handloom Expo, Hand-Tex, was somewhat similar. The expo, organised as part of the National Handloom Day (August 7) featured a range of traditional weaves, fabrics, designs and themes of Tamil Nadu.

“We have not only showcased handloom silks and cottons from across Tamil Nadu, but have also brought in contemporary designs to cater to all age groups,” says TN Venkatesh, managing director, Co-optex.

The expo brings together weavers under the apex society. “This ensures affordable pricing and authentic quality of handloom products. This year, we have an extensive collection of organic cotton handloom saris from clusters of weavers in Dindugul, Vadambacheri, Manalmedu and Paramakudi regions of Tamil Nadu,” says Venkatesh. Organic cotton saris are available from 2,000 onwards.

Many weavers from these villages have been initiated into organic cotton weaving in the past few years. A Kuzhandhaivelu, a master weaver from Manamedu near Dindugul, who has set up his stall at the expo, says, he started sourcing organic cotton (certified by Global Organic Textile Standard) from the National Handloom Development Corporation. He uses yarns that are naturally dyed or chemically dyed (but free of azo compounds).

“Two years ago, we had only six dedicated looms to supply us organic cotton handloom saris, but in the past two years, the number of looms has risen to 200,” says Venkatesh. In 2016-17, Co-optex sold 17,000 organic cotton saris sourced from various apex societies. These saris come at affordable prices, when compared to those sold by private agencies.

Co-optex has been actively involved in the revival of some of the most famous textile traditions of the State such as Sungudi saris from Madurai, Chettinad saris from Karaikudi, Kanchi cotton saris from Vadamanapakkam near Cheyyar, Koranaadu saris from Mayiladuthurai and Chedibutta saris from Veeravanllur, Thirunelveli.

Sungudi saris were traditionally dyed by tying numerous small stones on the fabric, but that method has vanished; instead wax technique is used to dye handwoven fabric. Even stoles and dupattas are available in Sungudi designs.

The speciality of the Chedibutta sari is the intricate embroidery-like design woven in the pallav. Koranadu saris are a mix of cotton and silk; they are done using a weaving tradition that is fast vanishing, and are generally used as kooraipudavai (wedding saree) in the region. Kanchi cotton saris are similar to the silk ones when it comes to border and design. Chettinad cotton saris come in vibrant colours and typically have broader borders.

Apart from silk and cotton handloom, Co-optex also exports home furnishing to Europe and other countries. There is a counter where all of their export home furnishings such as bedspreads, aprons, gloves, table mats and curtains are available. There is a 30% discount on the entire range of handlooms from Tamil Nadu.

Source: http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/tamil-nadu-handlooms-and-revival-sarees/article19408558.ece